#1 Dermatologist: The Ultimate Skincare Routine for Amazing Skin
We have received thousands and thousands. and thousands of questions on the topic. of skin care. Today, Dr. Shereene. Idriss, one of the most trusted. board-certified dermatologist in the. world, is here with the science, three. specific steps, [music] and the no-BS. truth on what works and what doesn't. >> Skin is not [music] just vanity. It's. not just cosmetic. It's not just. superficial. Once you start to shift. that perspective, you realize, "Holy. cow, this is my biggest organ, and yet I. put it through the wringer.".
>> What do we do about these sagging jowls? >> It's not a skin care failure. Your. structural bone changes. >> Now, let's talk about the things that. you should skip because they are a waste. of money. >> There are moments when it can be useful, but this is not something I recommend. every day. >> Uh-oh. >> Makeup remover wipes. >> [laughter]. >> wipes, everybody. >> I I prefaced it. >> Not every day. >> Not most days. >> Let's talk about injectables.
>> Who are they for? >> The goal of Botox is not to freeze you. in perpetuity. And side note, that's why. I think I personally have an issue with. like the preventative Botox aspects of. life because what are we preventing? Your confidence is not going to come. from changing your skin first. It's. going to come by changing your. relationship to your [music] skin first. Your skin is not a problem to solve. It. is a relationship to build. >> Hey, it's Mel, and before we get into.
this episode, my team was showing me. 57%. of you. who watch the Mel Robbins podcast here. on YouTube are not subscribed yet. Could. you do me a quick favor? Just hit. subscribe so that you don't miss any of. the episodes that we post here on. YouTube. It lets me know you're enjoying. the guests and the content that we're. bringing you because I want to make sure. you don't miss a thing, and I'm so glad. you're here for this episode cuz this is. a really good one. All right, let's dive. in. Dr. Shirine Idriss, welcome to the.
Mel Robbins podcast. >> I cannot believe I'm here, but thank you. so much for having me. >> Well, I'm really glad you're here, and. there's two things I want to say before. we jump in. Number one, you know, as. you're listening or watching on YouTube, I just want to tell you you have picked. a winner, and I can already tell, because you have about 40 pages of notes. in front of you. I know that we are in. for something that is going to be. world-class, so thank you for really. showing up in a way for me and for the. person who's spending time with us. today, uh to make an impact. Second thing is.
when I posted on social all about the. fact that you were coming, just asked. people for their questions, I don't know. that we've ever gotten more questions on. a topic, and so we are going to go deep. I'm so excited. Where I want to start, Dr. Idriss, is. what is going to change about my life. if I take everything to heart that you. are about to teach us. and I apply it? >> And the biggest thing that's going to.
change when you take to heart everything. we're going to talk about here today is. not just the knowledge in your skin or. gaining a little bit more confidence in. taking care of your skin, but the. emotional impact it's going to have on. your overall confidence moving forward. Because aging, 20% of it is genetics. If it was all purely genetics, habits. wouldn't matter. And so 80% of how we age and show up in. the world has to do with habits. And so. if we can create the system so we can. show up for ourselves every single day,
but also have the confidence in our. knowledge, too, we can transform from an. inside-out perspective and really. blossom into the butterflies that we. are. >> You said that only 20% is determined by. genetics. So I've never heard anybody. say that. >> Yeah. So 80% has to do with cumulative. sun exposure. Are we living a rockstar. lifestyle? Are we consuming alcohol to. no end? Are we not focusing on the. overall aspect of our lifestyle and. diet? Are we actually washing our faces? Are we using the things and that I think.
is a reflection of everything else. When. all of it comes together, your skin care. is that reflection of how you view. yourself and how you take care of. yourself overall. So to be able to put a. little bit of emphasis, a little change. every single day will amount to bigger. changes in the long run. And I think the. most dramatic one is truly how you feel. about yourself and that's why I went. into dermatology. I never liked convincing people that. they had a problem. >> Mhm. >> And so because they could see their. problem, they're already more motivated. to help themselves. But to be able to.
see somebody's confidence be restored. after we've helped them go through. whatever it is they're going through, it's such there's no feeling that. compares. >> Well, it's true. Most of us don't go to. the dermatologist unless we hate. something about the way we look or if. there's something on our skin that's. scaring us. And it's going to sound. really dumb to admit, but when I. listen to what you're already saying, I. realize that I've been so focused on the. outside and what I'm putting on my skin. that I haven't really considered all of.
the things that you're also going to. talk about that are part of your. lifestyle that go from the inside out. >> A thousand percent. >> Wow. Um why is skin health so important. for overall health and what does the. state of your skin reveal about what's. going on inside your body? >> Your skin is your largest organ. And it is one of the few places, right, where internal health shows up visibly.
on the outer surface of your skin. So that is one thing that isn't often. taken into consideration, but your skin. is a visible feedback system that is. showing you what is going on on the. inside, but also not just internally. from a physiologic standpoint, but also. on the inside up here, mentally, emotionally, from a stress perspective. And that is the first visual trigger. that you have when you look at yourself. So, I think one thing that is often so. overlooked when it comes to skin health. is that mental and emotional impact that.
comes with it. And that is something. that shouldn't be overlooked, and skin. is not just vanity. It's not just. cosmetic. It's not just superficial. It's really a whole person issue. And I. think once you start to shift that. perspective, you realize, "Holy cow, this is my biggest organ, and yet I put. it through the wringer, and I don't even. care for it." So, it's really something. that I find fascinating cuz it's so. visible, and yet it's an afterthought. for so many. >> Let's say the person listening or.
watching here on YouTube is in a phase. of their life where they're going. through all kinds of hormonal changes, and you hear that your skin is a. reflection of what's going on in the. inside. How do you want the person. listening who feels now all of a sudden. like, "Oh my god, the fact that my skin. is in welts, and it's. acne all over the place, and I hate how. I look, or my skin is sagging, or I've I. sat out for decades in the sun, and now. I'm screwed." How do you want the person.
listening who's now starting to collapse. a little. to to listen to what you have to say. about what's possible if you feel like. your skin is reflecting. like not good health on the inside. Do. you know what I mean? >> Yeah, it's so I would want you to know, if you feel like your skin is taking. control of your life, and it is out of. control, you are still in control. And. it's a matter of first taking a step. back and calming your skin down. And really trying to first focus on.
calming everything down before focusing. on treating the issue. And once we have that step in place, and. we will talk about it more today, you. will gain control over your skin, and. you will see that the possibilities are. really endless, and it's never too late. to start. Whether you are 20, 30, 40. I. mean, I have patients I have my oldest. patient is 88, and she still cares, and. that's what I love about her. That shows. her will to keep going. And people, I. think our society, they describe very. negatively cosmetic work or vanity, and.
it's usually talked about in an under a. negative light. But the truth is, being. vain to a healthy and certain extent is. just a reflection that you still care. If we didn't care, I'd almost be more. worried. Like, you know, are we really. at the bottom of of our struggles here? And so, you have to understand that it's. not just vanity. It's a reflection of. you caring that you still want to show. up. It doesn't matter when you're. starting. You can always start to take. control and help yourself. >> As a world-renowned dermatologist, what. is healthy vanity.
and what is unhealthy vanity when it. comes to how you look? >> That is a great question, and I don't. think it has ever been truly defined. So, I'm going to give you my subjective. perspective. Unhealthy vanity, let's. start with the negative, is when it is. constantly consuming your mental. thoughts. Almost like an addiction, where no matter what you do or no matter. what you try for yourself, you're. constantly speaking about it in a. negative way, and it's not good enough, and so you are chasing an never-ending. nothingness because it's just not.
something that's achievable, right? Whereas a healthy dose of vanity is like. caring enough to show up. and wear an ironed shirt instead of a. wrinkled shirt. You know, caring enough. to brush your hair, caring enough to. show up in a way where it's still a. positive reflection of who you are, but. it's not consuming who you are. Your. confidence is not dependent on how you. look, but it's a cherry on top, and it. allows you to feel more confident. And. so, that I think is the difference. between unhealthy vanity and healthy. vanity. >> What I kept thinking about as I was.
listening to the way that you were. talking about self-criticism and never. for enough. is that there's also that relationship. between unhealthy being the constant. pursuit. of hoping other people think you look a. certain way. versus the ability to look in the mirror. and care about how you feel about. yourself. >> I mean newsflash you've always looked. like you. So if you're always pursuing. other people's approval of how you look,
you're pursuing something that doesn't. exist and I've been in practice for over. 10 years. I see nearly 100 patients a. week and more often than not it's a much. deeper rooted issue that you're trying. to get to and that's where it's such a. vulnerable state where you have to find. someone that you know you trust who's. not going to feed off these insecurities. or vulnerabilities or take advantage of. and I've seen it through every angle. And cosmetics is not just skin deep. It's deeper. >> I've never heard anybody explain it like. that. And I can give you an example.
because I feel like I'm in the exam room. with you right now. And I have come in because I hate. at the age of 57 I've got these like. jowls and when you just said that it's. never really about the thing you're. complaining about. you're right. For me it's that I feel old when I see. my skin sagging and it scares me to. think that I'm 57 and that that much of.
my life has just flown by and that. somehow. >> [laughter]. >> get rid of these things that are hanging. down like meat purses on my face that I. will feel different about myself but you. know maybe there's something to do that. we can and we'll talk about all that but. I love that we're also saying that it's. really about how you feel and the deeper. things that are going on. >> Yeah, 1000%. >> Wow. Let's talk about how your lifestyle and.
habits impact your skin. What are the. specific lifestyle habits that. positively affect your skin? >> The most important habits that I think. are under spoken on, right? Number one, and I used to roll my eyes in my 20s and. even in my 30s at this one, but it's. true, sleep. You cannot underestimate. the value of sleep and the reason beauty. sleep exists is for a reason, but I. think it's misunderstood. It's not. because you slept 8 hours last night.
that you look good today. Sleep is like compound interest, it's a. long-term investment. And it's that bank. that you're feeding over time that gives. you your best results over time in the. long run. So, it's not just about having. one good night's rest, it's about. consistently showing up to that your. skin and your body. heal and regenerate and start over. again. Number two is movement. And I'm. not saying you have to go become. triathletes and like, you know, bodybuilders, but simple movement like. just getting up, going for a walk, moving around because that causes your.
lymphatic fluid to move, it keeps things. going, it pumps the blood to your skin, it allows you to be better and show up. better for yourself. It's very simple, but not many people. move as much as they should. Number three, and this one is a little. bit sensitive, but diet. >> Okay. >> A healthy diet is going to be supportive. and it's going to help to create the. right environment for your skin. We are. all in agreement. But when people are. eating their retinol, aka eating carrots. to no end to try to get the benefits of. a retinol that you're applying. topically, it's not going to give you.
that same impact as a topical. medication, prescription, moisturizer, cream. Food is meant to really be. supportive to make sure that you are. creating the best environment for. yourself to push forward. Skin care with. the crappiest diet is not great. You're. just putting a band-aid, >> Right. >> it's both working hand in hand. >> Mhm. >> So, I think you have to think of. lifestyle as a piece of the puzzle, a. very important piece of the puzzle, but. it's not the whole puzzle. Because when. you make it the whole puzzle, you think.
that you can be in fully in control, but. there are going to be some things that. happen that you're going to have to. learn how to be roll with the punches, how do we ask for help, how do we have, you know, external. things coming in to help us. >> Well, Dr. Idriss, the good news is that. you're here to educate us about what the. actual options are. So, one thing that I'd love to hear. you help us with is. that we are so marketed to, and every. time I go online, I see some 12-step.
skin care routine, red light masks, treatments, miracle products. How do you tune out the noise. to figure out what your skin truly. needs? >> This is a great question, and I think. this is the million-dollar question. First of all, nobody needs a 12-step. skin care routine. Nobody. Nobody needs to be spending. thousands and countless of hours on. products. It's not productive, it's not.
realistic, and as a mom of two who has. not one, but two, someone argue three. businesses, and a partner in my life, especially between the ages of zero and. four when my kids were really small, it. was impossible to find time for myself. And so, failing yourself by not showing up. through a consistent skin care routine. is the first point of failure. So, if. it's not something that you can be. consistent with, it's not good enough. And a routine needs to be simple enough. that you can be consistent with it. So, you can stick it through and actually.
see results, right? So, that I think is. really important that people understand. because the internet, social media, it's. optimized for selling things. And more doesn't mean better, especially. not when it comes to your skin. And you. really have to try to take a giant step. back. And so, this is what I tell. patients, like I'm going to tell you, like I tell my own family. Literally, take a giant step back from your mirror. and not your magnifying mirror. And look. at the forest and not the tree. Understand what is the biggest issue.
that you see in your skin. Is it brown. spots? Is it redness? Is it dehydration? Is it wrinkles? Is it I don't know. Whatever, crapiness. Whatever it is that. it is that you see, what is the one. biggest issue that bothers you and let's. start just there. >> If you're overwhelmed, what are the. three skin care products that you would. say to somebody in your practice that. they should add to their routine? >> If you're overwhelmed by all the. products, forget the specific products.
themselves. There are three categories that you kind. of want to incorporate into your routine. to make sure number one that you're. protecting your skin, you're supporting. your skin barrier number two, and number. three you're helping drive long-term. change. So, before I start, I just want. to preface this by saying I am not. sponsored by any of these companies. None of this is paid for. This is not an. advertisement and I tried to pick. products that are within everyone's. budget. >> Great. >> But also products you can find at your. local drugstore and I'm going to give. you two examples for each because it's.
the way that you know, make up your own. mind what it is that you want to use. We're starting with a very gentle. cleanser, one that is meant to clean and. cleanse your skin without over stripping. your skin. And this is one that you can. find at any drugstore. It's called. Vanicream. It's a very simple one. It's. nothing fancy. It can help clean your. face. If you're somebody who has very. dry skin, you can get another kind of. cleanser that is a little bit more. hydrating, but the job of a cleanser is. really to just set the foundation. Clean the gunk off of your face and it. is the smallest act of kindness that you. can do for yourself. After you've put.
your face out into the world, come home, get the day off your face, and just. start a fresh. It's your foundational. step, okay? >> Right? That's number one. >> How are you supposed to wash your face? >> So, I recommend using a cleanser at night. for the most part, right? This is a. general rule, and ideally just using. water in the morning. Once you've gotten. the day off at the end of the day, and. you've put on your moisturizer, and you. go to sleep, in the morning, do you. really need to use a cleanser to get all. of the extra gunk off? Probably not. And.
just having water run on your face is. going to be enough. >> Wow. Like even if your like spouse or. dog is like breathing on you all night. Like you know what I'm saying? >> general rule of thumb. I don't know. >> Well, you know what? Yeah, I'm older. than you, so when I'm sweating like. crazy because of menopause, I feel like. I've woken up and run a marathon. So I'm. like, I got to clean all this stuff off. >> thing. >> I could do it with water. >> But even going through menopause, right? Your skin is in a more dehydrated state. >> It is? >> Yes. And so you're losing that ability. to hold on to hydration, and that's why. you feel a little creepier. If you're. compounding on top of that, over.
stripping your skin, and getting rid of. the oil that is on your skin, >> Oh. >> your skin is going to feel more out of. sync, and it's going to be harder to. make sure that you feel more intact. Now, there's a lot of there's a huge. subset of who cannot not use a cleanser. in the morning, cuz they have a lot of. acne, they're oily prone, etc. So this. is not necessarily for everyone, but for. the vast majority, it is enough. And so. I think that's the first thing. The. second thing to take into consideration. before you go into the action of washing. your face is the water temperature,
which leads me back to the dehydration. >> Okay. >> No one talks about water temperature, and we usually probably use hot water. cuz it's the morning, and you want. something warm on your face. >> Well, yeah. >> Yes. But think of your face like a. greasy pan. Hot water gets rid of the grease. So if. you're now over stripping your face with. hot water and using a cleanser, >> every morning. >> Every morning and at night, you're. probably double whammying the thing and. >> I want to get rid of the grease? >> Sometimes the grease is also protective. Like it's a balance. It's not all bad.
>> at night, >> Exactly. >> then the skin is doing what it's trying. to do overnight to repair itself. overnight, >> Exactly. >> and then I wake up and wash it all away. with hot water. Okay. >> Warm. >> Warm water. Okay. >> And then this is I think where it gets. complicated, the double cleanse makeup. removal where people get confused. So, a lot of people don't realize that. they can use their cleanser twice. Now, if they are heavy makeup wearers who. have waterproof makeup, of course, or. really heavy makeup, use an oil-based.
cleanser first or micellar water and. follow it with a gentle gel-based. cleanser. That's not a problem. But what. I think is the most important part is. having a washcloth. for your face by your sink. And utilizing that washcloth to help. yourself work into the nooks and. crannies of your face to get everything. off. And it's funny because people roll. their eyes and I had so many comments, but if you have seven little washcloths, each one a different color, right? And you keep it in your mirror by. your sink, every day you're guaranteeing.
to use a different one and it's a fresh. pair of underwear for your face. Are we. going to reuse a dirty pair of. underwear? No. And so having a clean. washcloth is such a very simple solution. and making sure that you have seven of. them takes away the brain work from it, so you don't have to actively think of. it. And once you're done washing your. face, you toss it in the hamper. Got it. So then, number two is a very simple. moisturizer. I'm not talking about. moisturizer with actives. Right now, we. are setting the foundation and we're. trying to understand how to moisturize.
our skin. And one thing we do not often. talk about is not just your skin type or. your age, but the environment that. you're in. Are we living somewhere. really dry? Is it winter? Are we. somewhere very humid? But very simple. moisturizers like this one, it's a tried. and true, everything great was once new, not everything new is great. >> Pond's, baby. >> Grandma used that. >> This is one, it's a nice thicker cream. This is more of a gel moisturizer. >> That's a L'Oreal collagen gel. >> And the reason I bring this up is to. make sure that this is a very nice.
hydrating moisturizer, but the word. collagen on this moisturizer makes. people think that it's It's to help them. replenish their collagen. But it's a hydrating moisturizer. It's. not going to replenish your collagen. >> Okay. >> And so, I just think you have to. understand that nuance and understand. what you're buying and what you're. trying to get out of it. And then number. three, what everybody should be using, a. daily sunscreen. And so, there are. several sunscreens that you can find at. any local drugstore. One thing that most. people don't realize about sunscreen, it. can double up as your moisturizer. >> It can? >> Yeah, for sure. So, you don't.
necessarily need a moisturizer. Let's. say you're really oily and you live. somewhere really humid, like you're in. Florida. Do you need to add extra moisture to. your skin? Absolutely not. So, you can. just find yourself a sunscreen that. works for your skin type. Like this is a. sheer light sunscreen. If you're. somewhere very dry and you want extra. moisture even though you've moisturized, like you can get a moisturizing thicker, richer sunscreen that can help with. barrier repair. >> Got it. And would it say moisturizer on. it cuz you've got one from Neutrogena, one from La Roche-Posay?
>> So, they don't always say moisturizer. This one does say and I think it's a. nice example just because if somebody. doesn't know and they're going to a. drugstore, they can see it. But, it's. really about understanding that texture. If it's really rich and really creamy. and nice and you feel like your skin. stays hydrated after the fact, it's. hydrating your skin. >> So, is it more about the feel of what it. feels like? >> Absolu- I think and that's the secret. about sunscreen. It's that finding a. sunscreen that you actually like how it. feels on your skin. And I think the most. biggest reason why most people don't. adhere to wearing sunscreen is because I. don't like how it feels. And so, I think.
people haven't found the right frog and. they've kissed many frogs, but they. haven't found the right one. >> What SPF should you wear every day? >> SPF is more than just a number. So, SPF. stands for sun protection factor, but it. measures basically um how well your skin. is protected. >> Okay. >> So, when we're looking for an SPF, we. need to make sure that our SPF has broad. spectrum on it. >> Broad spectrum, okay. >> So, that it's protecting against both. UVA and UVB because both contribute to.
skin cancer. One causes more burn like UVB, one. contributes more to the breakdown of. your collagen like UVA, but if you're. just getting a simple sunscreen SPF not. broad spectrum, you're not protecting. against UVA. >> Oh. >> So, broad spectrum is not a. nice-to-have, it's a need-to-have. >> Okay. >> Okay? That's number one. The second. thing, SPF 30. Do you know. People don't really know, it's just a. number. >> Should I guess? >> Yeah. Yeah. >> I kind of believed that like the 15 is.
only going so deep in terms of the. barrier, the 30's maybe going a little. deep in terms of the It's like, you. know, kind of the thickness. >> of the cream or the invisible shield. >> invisible shield and. um. is it actually about the number of. minutes that it's helping? It is? >> minutes. So, it's not 15 minutes or 30. minutes, but it roughly means how much. longer you can stay out of the sun. without burning. compared to no sunscreen. So, let's say. >> is a lot of math.
>> Say it takes 10 minutes for you to burn. >> Okay. >> With an SPF of 30, it should technically. take you 300 minutes. So, that's what SPF stands for. And so, it's something that most people don't. even know. >> Dr. Idriss, what's the biggest myth. about getting a safe tan? >> There is no safe tan. A tan and any form. of pigment that gets produced because of. the sun, even a freckle is a sign of DNA damage. And so, anybody who says, "Oh, but I get.
a base tan.". is just telling me that their skin is. already reacting to the UV rays that it. got and it has internally damaged the. DNA of their cells. >> Whoa. >> So, there's no safe tan. >> Okay. So, for somebody like me who. really blew this, child of the late 70's and the 80's who. would lather up with Bain de Soleil. tanning oil. >> Yeah. >> And then I would. lay on my driveway with my.
>> Did you have the Did you have the foil? >> I had the foil. Of course. I was going. for that copper tan, pull the bikini. down. I have so much skin damage, but I. got the tan line. Can you reverse that damage? What do I. like. >> It's never too late to help yourself. Number one, I think if you're somebody. who's done that, make sure you go in for. a yearly skin exam. Because yes, it's. already DNA damage and you don't want to. get skin cancer and you may develop skin.
cancer, but the good news with skin. cancer is it's highly treatable when. caught early. So don't let fear get in. the way of you getting checked and just. go in for a yearly skin exam. The same. way you go in for a dental cleaning, get. your skin checked. >> Yeah. >> But you can of course help yourself at. least from a cosmetic standpoint because. how does that damage usually show up. first? It shows up in the form of brown. spots, sunspots, hyperpigmentation, discoloration. And so. understanding how to use skin care over. the counter as a baseline routine.
married to prescription is going to give. you a very solid way to help your skin. to look fresher and better. >> I'm starting to understand the marketing. language now. Because I. am constantly seeing where it says. reverses, you know, sun damage, but what it's. actually saying is reverses the signs of. sun damage because you can't get rid of. the damage done to the DNA, you can just. maybe lighten the brown spot that's.
starting to appear. Am I catching on? >> Exactly. Exactly. >> me smarter, Dr. Pirdres. >> Exactly. >> So, those are the three categories of. products that you need. You need a. gentle cleanser, you need a moisturizer, and you need sunscreen. >> Yes. >> Now let's talk about the things that you. should skip because they are a waste of. money. >> And to just think of this conceptually, anything that is promising instant. results. it's probably not going to be for the. best of your long-term benefit. Anything. that is breaking your skin barrier,
it's not going to be for the best of. your long-term benefit. And anything. that is irritating or inflaming your. skin, similar to breaking your skin. barrier, it's not going to be for the. best of your long-term benefit. So, number one, all right? >> Uh-oh. >> It's not sheet masks as a whole. category, but when the format doesn't. match what the product is trying to give. you, it's a red flag. >> So, you're holding these masks that I. see at every checkout now that have all.
like my daughters wear these like crazy. I typically will put one on on a plane, but I don't know what I'm buying. >> This is where you have to understand. what an active is. Okay. So, the point. of a sheet mask is to calm your skin. down, to hold onto that hydration, to. keep that gunk in, right? >> Okay. >> When you find a sheet mask with an. active of like a retinol, this is a red. flag because the format of the product. doesn't match the ingredients. The last. thing I would want to do is put a. retinol under occlusion in a sensitive.
area. It's like a recipe for chaos and. disaster. So, understanding what you're. purchasing is very important for you. That's why I think it's important to. have a basic understanding of what are. ingredients, what are we trying to. achieve with them, and then what are the. different formats that exist that I can. layer into my skin care once I have my. foundation in place. >> You know, if you were to. buy a mask, what are you looking for? Just like cooling, moisturizing? >> Honestly, really just hydrating, moisturizing cuz I'm looking for that. instant kind of plumping glow, and then.
I'm done. I'm not looking for long-term. gains out of it. >> Okay, what is the next product we should. not waste money on? >> All right, here it goes. Ready? It's a. little controversial, but like a loofah, okay? >> Why should I not buy have a loofah? >> Number one, what worries me a bit about. loofahs is that use this on their face. And I've seen this time and time again. If it's not a loofah that looks like. this, like a synthetic one, the. traditional natural loofahs. >> Yeah, those sponges. >> people have used them on their faces, and I've seen this in my practice. It is a physical exfoliant that's.
getting rid of dead skin cells. physically, right? But the skin of your. face is much thinner, and it can be. extremely irritating and aggressive. Not. to mention the fact that many people. don't clean this. And bacteria can build. up, water can be stuck in there, it can. get moldy, gross, and just not. necessarily the best thing. Number. three, now this is not the complete. devil. There are moments when it can be useful, but this is not something I recommend. every day. >> Uh-oh. >> Makeup remover. >> the makeup wipes, everybody. >> I I prefaced it.
>> Not every day. >> Not most days. Definitely may maybe once. a week. It's like this is reserved as. your SOS by your bedside if you had a. night out. and you're too tired to wash your face. At least you're guaranteeing that you're. trying to show up for yourself and get. that makeup off your face. >> What is the downside to basically scrub. I I literally scrub my makeup off with. one of those things like I am trying to. get bits off a pan that is burnt to it.
>> of it this way. Look at it Imagine an. orange, right? >> Okay. >> And it has all these tiny little pits. that are your pores. Now, let's cover. that orange with foundation. >> It's not caked in at all. Yep. >> Um. whatever, tone foundation orange, okay? You take a makeup wipe and you clean. that orange. What are you doing? >> I'm ramming it into the pores. >> and what's happened is that when you. look at this orange, it might have. shades of orange come through, but. you've really just kept the stuff in the. pores. So, you haven't gotten rid of.
anything. You've just smeared it across. the board. >> Well, and you feel like you've gotten. rid of it because it's all right on the. thing, but the truth is, you're right. I. wake up in the morning. >> and there's probably a little residue on. pillow case. >> and my my eye makeup is smeared. underneath my eyes. You're right. >> And it's funny, when I I mean, I've been. guilty of this, right? There are nights. when I haven't washed my face. So, no. one's perfect. But, in your 20s and 30s, it's not that big a. deal. Once you turn 40, if you fall asleep with makeup, you look.
like the Crypt Keeper overnight the next. day. It's like your skin quality goes to. crap. You can't bounce back as fast. It. just You You see the impacts. immediately. And so, I think being in. the habit of actually washing your face. is huge. And makeup wipes, again, there's there's a certain subset of the. population who turns to makeup wipes. Maybe they have a disability. Something. is better than nothing. >> Yeah, and I That's why I said they're on. the. >> Or you're on a plane. >> Fantastic. >> Or it's a late night. >> Fantastic. >> But, if it's your main way of washing. your face, no.
>> That's why I had to preface the makeup. wipes. Now, this is also another one. If you're a. child of the '90s, nose strips. >> Nose strips. Strips. Now, this is going. to give you temporary results, but it's. not going to give you long-term change. >> Okay. >> And it's very visually appealing cuz you. feel like you got something out. >> Yes. >> But, the problem with nose strips is. that. visual instant gratification does not. equal long-term results. And I'm just. going to hyper focus on that sentence. because we like the fact that we take. out the most superficial layer of our.
pores, >> Mhm. >> but it's an extremely aggressive. movement. And over time, if you keep. doing it, you're going to stretch your. pores. And you're probably going to buy. yourself a bigger problem over time with. in terms of your texture and how your. pores show up. >> What kind of problem can it lead to? >> I mean, textural changes. It makes your. pores more apparent. Your pores can. start filling up faster again because. it's just getting rid of that. superficial part. >> Ooh, now I'm having to use it again to. get it out as they're filling up. This. sounds terrible. >> is where like a salicylic acid cleanser. can be helpful to help to minimize that. build-up instead of something that's. giving you an instant gratification.
Like cheap dopamine hit. >> You used the word actives. >> Mhm. >> So, let's talk more about them. Things. like vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, if. you even say it that way, hyaluronic. acid. You know, who should use this stuff and who should. not? >> Okay, so. actives are very important to help to. support your skin overall depending on. what your goals are, right? But I just. want to preface one thing again. It.
doesn't mean that they are miracle. ingredients. So, understanding what each. one does is very important for you to. know if you want it in your routine. But. let's start with vitamin C. I think. vitamin C has a lot of marketing around. it. The food industry often trickles. into the beauty industry. >> Okay, but I don't know what it does. >> No, exactly. And I think vitamin C. >> put it on my face and I don't know what. it does. >> Okay, vitamin C most people a lot of. people can benefit from it. >> Okay, what does it do? >> It's going to help with your overall. tone of your skin. >> Meaning it'll make it firmer.
>> Skin color. It's a great great question. And it's funny cuz I used to even be. confused by what tone meant. It means. your skin color. >> Well, can I ask you a question about. that? So, if you're like a pale zombie. like me who turns red all the time. >> Mhm. It might not necessarily be the. best thing for you. We'll talk about the. types of vitamin C. But vitamin C helps. with brown spots, helps with. discoloration. Yes. >> Okay. >> It also helps with collagen production. You need vitamin C to produce collagen. But it also has antioxidant protection. So, it's going to help to protect your. skin from like the environmental. stressors that can cause free radicals.
that cause your collagen to break down. early. So, it is a very powerful. ingredient that has a huge track record. and it's a great one to have in your. routine. But vitamin C is a category. There's the active form of vitamin C. known as ascorbic acid. And then there's. a whole inactive side to vitamin C. >> Oh my god, so we may be buying something. that says vitamin C that has that's not. active. >> Yes. >> Thinking it's active. >> Yes. >> How do we know? >> You have to This is where I think again.
understanding who you're buying from, understanding the education that the. brand puts out, understanding the. different forms, and just educating. yourself not to gain a PhD, but to know. enough to be dangerous, to understand. can I use this to help myself. >> So, you use vitamin C, active vitamin C. For tone, for brown spots. >> both. Both of them help with all of. these issues. But if you're someone who. thinks you have sensitive skin and your. skin's very reactive, I probably. wouldn't tell you to use the active. form. >> Okay. >> Because it's much more pungent or.
whatever the word is. Like it has a. stronger punch. And so I'd probably tell you go for the. inactive form of vitamin C. Okay. >> What about retinol? Everybody's talking. about retinol. I see, you know, teenagers buying products with retinol. in it. What is retinol? >> Retinol is the crown jewel of active. ingredients. It is a vitamin A. derivative. And as a prescription, it is. known as tretinoin, a retinoid. Um over. the counter, it's called a retinol. Now, like vitamin C has an inactive form, retinol is the inactive form and the. prescription is the active form.
>> Oh. >> But this category of vitamin A is meant. to help to build thicker skin, to. promote collagen production, to help. regulate how your cells turn over. So. teenagers. would use it originally for acne, like. blackheads and whiteheads, to minimize. how it sticks. And then we realized it. has long-term longevity benefits. So it. became a staple for the anti-aging world. and it has a huge track record of. clinical data to support it. But one thing that I think people get. wrong about retinols and retinoids is.
that stronger is better. >> I burnt my face doing this. >> That is wrong. Because you are going to. just it's better to be consistent over. time than to go wrong and strong. And I. say with retinol. >> I'm a wrong and strong gal, Dr. Adra. I. I got it. The tretinoin thing or. whatever it's called. I looked like a lizard. that had red skin within a week. because I probably over applied and then. I just stopped doing it all together. >> Exactly. You got dissuaded. So, it's.
about consistency over intensity. I would rather you pick the inactive. form at its lightest concentration over. the counter and use it five nights a. week. >> Okay. >> and maybe use the prescription once. >> Okay. >> And have a healthy, happy skin state. Because that inflammation that you're. going to cause, let's say you're doing. this every week long-term, it's not. going to benefit you as you age. And. let's say you just did it once, you got. zero benefit out of that, you've just. been traumatized. >> Completely. >> I I I don't believe in trying to push.
for a higher concentration. It's about. what are you using most nights of the. week and you're able to hold on to. without inflaming your skin. >> Talk to me about hydro hyalo- I can. never say this word, hyaluronic. acid. >> Hyaluronic acid. So, this was all the. rage even like four or five years ago. where you saw it on every beauty brand. market mass marketing campaign. And it's. funny cuz when it comes to the beauty. industry, the biggest barrier is. marketing and education so that. consumers hear ingredients and they.
think, "Oh, I need that.". >> Yes. >> It is a humectant that attracts water. A. humectant means an ingredient that likes. water. >> Okay. >> and attracts it. So, what's going to. happen? It's going to give you more of a. hydrating effect, a plumping effect. You're going to look a little bit. bouncier. It's going to help with the. fine lines. >> Is that a good thing to look bouncier? >> Why not? >> Okay, well, I don't know. [laughter]. I don't know. I don't want to look. deflated. >> That's true. I don't either. Okay. >> be bouncy. >> Okay. >> But, it's not the end-all be-all and. best humectant on the market. Number.
one. Number two, it is. quite literally an eight out of 10. product that you're probably using. >> Oh, okay. >> So, do you need to have it as a. dedicated product in your round up to. complicate your life and to add more. stress and to add more time to your. routine? Probably not. >> I love how you're simplifying all this, Dr. Idriss, cuz it just comes back to. that three-step routine and asking. yourself. what am I not happy about? What is it. that I'd like to see an improvement in?
What is it that I want to address? And. then educating yourself about the right. thing to add. And I'm also hearing. go low and slow. >> Low and slow. >> Low and slow on this. Like you don't. want to step on the pedal and burn your. skin like Mel Robbins did. >> kind of like. dieting, right? Do we go into a diet and. say I'm going to lose 80 lb? No. >> Yes. >> You'll but you can but then you don't. And then you get, you know, dissuaded. and you feel like it's not for me. So, let's focus on small wins, baby steps,
things that we know are we're not going. to fail ourselves by. And really try to get the ball rolling. in the right direction before we start. to be too gung-ho about the whole. process. >> Dr. Idriss, let's talk about sensitive. skin. 70% of adults worldwide say they. have sensitive skin, redness, irritation, stinging often from skin. care products. And they assume, okay, well, that's all that it is. What is. sensitive skin really mean? And as a dermatologist, Dr. Idriss,
what could be driving the sensitivity in. the skin? >> So, seven out of 10 people say they have. sensitive skin. But the reality is people who have true. sensitivities is much lower at one out. of 10. >> Real Wait, one out of 10 people have. sensitive skin? >> sensitivities. Okay. So, the perception. of what sensitive skin is as a skin type. is often misplaced because what they're. describing is not a skin condition, but. a skin state. Their skin is very.
reactive. They have reactive skin. But. sensitive, true sensitivities is I. cannot tolerate I'm making it up a. preservative. And when I have this. preservative on my skin, I get a crazy. rash that's itchy and I flare up and it. lasts for days and I have to go on. medication to calm it down. >> not like an allergy. >> It becomes kind of like an allergy. Exactly. >> but you could have reactive skin for a. number of reasons. >> have reactive skin for You can just be a. reactive human. Most white people are. reactive. You're going to see a redness. come up on your skin. All right? Most.
white people have that reactivity in. their skin. If I wash my face, I get. redder. And then it calms down after a. few minutes. That doesn't mean I'm. sensitive. >> Why does it get redder? >> Because of the rubbing, your blood flow, you see it more, your melanin's low, it's more obvious. But that being said, most people don't actually have real. sensitivities and it's that skin state. And so when you start seeing stinging, redness, and burning, especially from products that never. bothered you before, it's the result of. long-term, probably chronic inflammation. that hasn't been fully addressed, where.
then you develop a real sensitivity over. time. So, when you have this reactive kind of. skin, and you know your skin is very. easy to flare up, the first goal that. you should always have is to calm your. skin down. Again, going back to the. basics, focus on some a basic routines. that you know your skin can tolerate, that keeps your skin calm. And that I. think is probably the hardest thing to. do cuz when people get reactive, even if. for two, three days, they start. compounding things and products trying.
to fix it without letting their skin do. its thing to calm down and heal. So, step one, if your skin is very sensitive. or reactive, is to stop everything. And this freaks people out. I'm like, you're not going to melt. Okay? You're going to survive this. For. like a week or two, everything from skin. care to makeup, you're going to wash. your face with water, and if you really. need something, if you really need an occlusive of some. sort, you can use Vaseline.
But you have to calm the skin before you. can correct it. And then step two. is very boring and very slow, but you. rebuild your barrier slowly. So, you. first incorporate then a moisturizer. And you let that work for you for a few. days, and you make sure that you're not. reacting to that for a few days. Once. you have that green check mark and green. light, then you incorporate a cleanser. You see how your skin does with the. cleanser and the moisturizer over a few.
days, and then it can allow you to sort. of pivot and see in which direction. you're going. But that puts the control. back in your hands, that you're not just. living this crazy life of reactivity and. trying to calm it with this and use. that, and then it stings more and it. gets more inflamed, and it's this. never-ending cycle. >> Yeah. >> It just cuts it. It resets it and allows. you to restart in a very systematic and. academic way, so you can pinpoint where. are the shortcomings and how can I. pivot. >> So, if you're dealing with reactive.
skin, >> Yeah. >> take a step back, calm down, stop. everything, start with a moisturizer that's not got. active stuff in it, because we got to. rebuild the barrier, and then we can. slowly start to add in a cleanser and do. some of the basics to give our skin a. break. >> You're a very good listener. >> Yes. Well, cuz I want to learn. I want. to make sure I'm getting this. >> That's exactly it. >> Cuz I think I've over complicated. everything my whole life. >> You and most people. >> Yeah. Um let's talk about acne. It.
affects up to 50 million people a year. in the US alone, and I understand that. there are different types of acne. >> Mhm. >> And so, can you explain the different. types of acne and how someone can tell. what they're dealing with? >> Yes, for sure. So, acne is not just a. teenage problem. I want to start off by. saying that. I have so many women who. are 28, 35, 44 who get acne. They're. like, "I don't understand. I'm not a. teenager anymore. Wasn't I past this. stage of my life?". But there's four subtypes. One, and. we're going to just start with hormonal. acne because I mentioned these women,
but hormonal acne is driven by hormonal. fluctuations that come and go. And. because your skin is your biggest. visible organ that has a feedback. system, it's going to show up on your. skin, especially due to androgen. sensitivity, so testosterone-like. hormones. And patterns are key here. With hormonal. acne, you tend to notice it mostly along. the jawline, where you get these deep cystic pimples. along your jawline in a cyclical fashion. around your period. And so that clinical.
history and the physical distribution. usually points towards hormonal acne. Then you have inflammatory acne, number. two. Inflammatory acne, you can kind of. think of as that classic red pimple. pustule on your face coming and going a. little haphazard on your cheeks, your. nose, your forehead, chin, etc. And it is often triggered by over. exfoliation, hard products, barrier. damage, people who over strip their. skin, harsh winters, people even if. you've done nothing, it can cause it.
That inflammatory acne, if not under. control or taking care of, can lead to. deeper cystic acne, which is number. three. The deep painful pimples and. nodules that can leave really bad. scarring. And this is one where it is a spectrum, there's a continuation, but you can also. just go straight to cystic acne on your. own just as a predisposition. And what breaks my heart is when I I'm. all for body positivity, but when you. see people with really bad cystic acne. just trying to use a pimple patch when.
you could try to treat it to minimize. the scarring left behind. It's huge and it can change your overall. confidence. It can change how you show. up in social settings. It can change how. you present for yourself. And it really. has a very strong mental connection. And. then you have number four, comedonal. acne. Comedones are blackheads, whiteheads. Um so you can have a little. bit of everything, of course, but it's. nice when you try to pinpoint what is. the biggest root cause and start. treating it there so you can start to. see the improvements. >> Dr. Idriss, why does adult acne happen?
And what is different about it when you. suddenly have acne in your 30s, 40s, or. 50s versus being a teenager? >> Because your hormones are not. stabilized. They're fluctuating. So, you. are a hormonal up and down. Compound. that with the fact with as we age, our. cells turn over. every 28 days or so. But with each. decade, you can add 10 days. So, in your. 30s, it may be 38 days. In your 40s, it.
might be 48 days. So, your cells are not. differentiating as fast. So, now we have. inflammation. Now we have slower cell. turnover. Now we have hormonal. fluctuation, and so we tend to be more. sensitive to it as we're going through. those cycles of life. >> Um. what are some of the sneaky triggers. that can cause. a flare-up of acne that people don't. even realize are the cause of acne?
>> So, other than like the basic ones, right? >> Hair products. >> Hair products can cause acne? >> Can sometimes be very, very oily and can. clog pores, so you have to be careful in. what you're using. Touching your face. Not just with your hands, but like. >> I just say I just took my hand right. right there. >> I do have a problem. I touch my face a. lot. But even through your phone. Have. When's the last time you really cleaned. your phone? >> Oh god. >> And making sure your glasses that are. sitting on the. >> I always get stuff underneath my. glasses. Yeah. >> Especially if you're wearing makeup. So, things that are coming into contact with. your face that are not just your hands.
And this goes even into the makeup. world. Have we washed our brushes? Are. we washing them regularly? Most people. are not. They're using an old beauty. blender that's been around. And so, it. doesn't mean that you're dirty, but it. just means these are things that we have. to take into consideration when we're. thinking about our face. Um heat and sweating. definitely can also impact. And then. diet. I think diet, like I said, is part. of the picture. It's not the whole. picture, but you can support better skin. with a better diet. >> Dr. Idriss, you say that one of the most.
common things that people come into your. clinical practice seeking help for is. melasma. >> Yeah. >> What is that? >> I studied it in theory. I studied it in. medical school. I learned about it in. residency, and then I experienced it. when I went through IVF. But melasma is. hormonal pigmentation that is driven by. your hormones. >> Mhm. >> And it usually appears on your face in. patches. Sometimes they're discrete, and. sometimes they're bigger, usually on the. your cheeks or your forehead. And they.
can get really emphasized with your. pregnancy, going through IVF, with your. period, going through menopause, life. stress. You cannot predict it. >> Mhm. >> And so with melasma, it's so tricky. because the gold standard is treating it. with a prescription medication like. hydroquinone. But you can't be on. hydroquinone forever in perpetuity. You. have to take breaks when you use. hydroquinone. >> And then if you take a break, does it. come back? >> Exactly. So your over-the-counter. routine has to be geared towards.
sustaining how you produce pigment so. that the prescriptions can really have. hopefully more impact on a longer term, so you're not always running back to. them. >> Mhm. >> Now, in recent years, there have been. recent discoveries like oral medications. that can help with deeper melasma, like. dermal melasma. Not everyone is a. candidate, but it's called tranexamic. acid. If you're prone to blood clots, it's not for you, but if you've never. had one, it can change how you see. yourself. And the reason I'm telling you. this is when my melasma flared, I felt like a crypt keeper overnight,
and I was 34 or 35. And I remember my. younger cousin, this hot young girl from. Lake Geneva, comes over, and she's like, "Hi. Ooh." And that was. >> [laughter]. >> I was like, "What? I just had a baby.". And she goes, "Mhm. That's your first. reaction?" She goes, "Yeah, but what. happened to your face?". And it hit me like it was like a dagger. to my heart like cuz I felt bad about. myself. And so when you have melasma, there's. this constant feeling that you need to. hide your face. And it's a very. heavy feeling that sounds so silly and.
vain, but the repercussion is so much. deeper that I didn't want to take a. picture with my baby. I don't have any. pictures of my daughter when she was a. first couple of weeks old. >> sad. >> didn't want to see my face. And so I. think when you have conditions like. this, it really does amplify that skin. is not just a cosmetic organ. It's a. whole person issue. And melasma is such. a visual of that. That for me, it's one. of those conditions that I really do try. to help people through. Not just in my. practice, not just through my skin care.
routine, but educating online so that. they know that they have tools at their. disposal to help themselves. >> All right. For the moment I've been. waiting for personally, I want to talk. about aging skin. >> Okay. >> You said there are two key. ages when your skin really changes. What. is going on biologically beneath the. skin that causes these spikes. >> Okay. >> with your skin change? >> The first thing is understanding that. aging, it's not a linear process. There are moments in your life when you.
age faster. There are moments in your. life when you age slower. And understanding that timing and having. your finger on the beat of that pulse. helps because it allows you to know what. to expect. >> Okay. >> So everything I'm going to tell you. is not to breed insecurity or scare you, but it's so that you go into it feeling. more prepared, less intimidated, etc. So, the first peak is really in your. late 20s, early 30s. Where over the course of 6 months, you. notice something shifts and you can't. quite put your finger on it. And I think.
today's generation is much more attuned. to it because of social, because of. Zoom, because of all the screen time. that they have. >> Yes. >> and selfies that they take, they see it. faster. >> And what are they seeing in your late. 20s and 30s? What are your patients. coming in and kind of report to you? >> You're going from a growth phase where. you're producing collagen in your teens. and early 20s to the beginning of a. maintenance phase. And starting in your. mid-20s, you start to lose around 1% of. collagen a year.
>> Okay. >> So, what they described is very subtle. and not real and more really. ill-defined, but they notice like a. flattening on the sides of their face. Like something looks a little flatter. They don't really know what they're. pointing out to, but they look I don't. know what it is, but I just look. different. The second peak is a little bit more. dramatic. It happens and I've noticed. this myself. I'm going to be 42 in a. week, but this happened at 38. Where over the course of a month, suddenly I thought I developed jowls and. I saw them. And it's because the bony.
and structural foundation of your face, your bone structure, what's holding your. face, starts to get thinner. And for me, it also coincided after breastfeeding. and having babies and something shifted. in my structure. Um and I remember. walking by that elevator being like, "Oof, what is that?" Um but it was good. and very humbling to feel it because it. allowed me to understand what my. patients are going through. But your. facial bone remodeling that is actively. happening, it's like a scaffold, right? Think of a.
scaffold holding up a structure. As it. starts to get smaller, what's happening. around it, your volume, your fat pads, your skin starts to shift and fall. >> Yeah, tangin there. >> It starts hanging. >> Yes. >> Then. >> I've hit that one. >> I I've hit it, too. But this is where. bone health matters, by the way. This. whole concept of really, you know, weight lifting and taking care of your. bones is huge for women and the first. place you really start to see it is your. face. >> Shut up. So, I can get rid of my jowls. by lifting weights? >> I think when you really build a strong.
bone structure and really make sure that. you are focusing on your bone health, you're not necessarily going to get rid. of them, but it's going to make sure. that you stay more intact. Now, genetics. come into play, yes, but you can try to. help yourself. >> Okay. >> Now, this is the third peak that has. been scientifically proven, and the. actual age that they say, I think, is. 44. There's a biomolecular shift, and. your cells age faster at this age. And. what I hear from my patients, and I've. heard this time and time again, is I've. gone to sleep, and I woke up, and I.
don't recognize myself, and it's. happening, and should I get a facelift? And it's like, panic, panic, panic, panic, panic. On top of the fact that. they're probably in perimenopause, and. their estrogen levels are starting to. decline. And estrogen is really, you. know, a hormone that helps with skin. thickness. It helps with hydration, collagen production, oil production. So, as the levels start to go down, >> Mhm. >> your skin starts to feel thinner, plus. the inherent DNA change that happens in. both men and women, and it's like, all. hell breaks loose. >> Yes. >> And then there's a fourth peak that.
happens in our early 60s. Um where, at. this point, I think we've come to a. better understanding of who we are and. how we're aging. It's something that's. not as dramatic because it's not so. sudden as at 44, but you have your. bones, you have your volume, you have. your skin quality. All three of them are. kind of shifting at the same time, and. there's another little accelerated. burst in the aging process. >> You know, as a dermatologist, I want to. know, cuz I've had this conversation. with so many friends, you know, one day. you look in the mirror and you think,
"Oh my god, who is that?". How do you. best deal with the emotional sign of. aging? Sagging, texture changes, and this recognition that it just feels. like it's out of your control. >> This is probably, for me, I think one of the most important. questions that you ask. Because, hopefully, we all have long lives, and. our skin is so tied to our visible. identity.
that we don't often think of the. opposite of how our skin affects our. mental health. Mhm. And as we get older, things shift relatively fast. Give. yourself some grace. It's not because. you didn't do. It's not because you. didn't use. It's not because you did. binge. Life was going to happen, but. what can we do now to support ourselves? Having that sort of understanding really. does lower that sort of energy around. the aging process. And then just being. open to learning about what is at your. disposal from over-the-counter skin care.
to maybe prescription to maybe something. minimally invasive to maybe more. extreme. And what is it that you want to. do to help support yourself? Because. when you help yourself, it's not like. you need this to be confident. The goal. is hopefully you're confident with. yourself and this is a cherry on top. But when you support yourself, it makes. you feel better in how you show up for. the world. And taking away that. judgment, even though you had that. judgment prior, but once you live through something, you.
see it through a different lens and you. realize that you know, there are ways. that you can help yourself without. changing who you are and still be who. you are. >> I love that. What do we do about these sagging jowls? Why do we develop them and what the heck. can we do about them? >> The dreaded jowls. >> these things. >> Even the word sucks. >> I hate them. It's like skin purses. hanging on It's like where did these. pockets come from? I'm not a squirrel. that needs to store nuts in the winter,
so I don't need this extra skin. I want. to get rid of it. What do What do I do? What do I do? What do I do? >> first it's important it's not a skin. care failure. It's not because you. didn't have a good skin care routine. It's not because you didn't wear. sunscreen correctly. It's not It's a. structural problem. >> Yeah, it feels like a a face failure if. I'm [laughter] being honest. >> issue. And so, the four things that lead. to jowls, right? Your bone Your. structural bone changes. That scaffold. that's holding your face up is slowly. disintegrating, okay? And so, what's.
happening from there? Our fat pads in. our face and we have many of them. >> Yep. start to redistribute and drop in. addition to the fact that they shrink. And then on top of it, the surface, your. skin, almost like the fabric of a couch, doesn't have anywhere to go, plus it's. losing that collagen and elasticity. So, it tends to just drape around it. So, all of those three reasons, compounded with potentially a fourth, which is repetitive muscle movement. There are some people who talk a lot. like this or pull their or pull their.
teeth and you can see their lower teeth. when they speak. That emphasizes it. And. so, that is something that I think is. really important that you understand so. that you don't go buy, for example, a firming cream. >> Okay. >> Or a It's not going to do anything. And. so, at some point, you're going to have. to know where it's like a skin care. failure or. an anatomic failure. But, if you get. them and if they're affecting you from. an emotional perspective and if they're. making you not feel confident and you're. thinking about it more often than not, >> And here's the thing I want to Now I'm.
so so what happened for me is I started. to notice it and I obviously have a. public career, but since we all have. cell phones, everybody's seeing their face all the. time. And so, you just start to notice. what is this sagging thing that's. happening. And now that I know that it's. structural and I can't buy a cream, I'm. depressed. So, now I need something. else. But, I started talking about it. with my sister-in-law Christine, who's. my business partner, and then Kris. Jenner gets the most incredible facelift.
I've ever seen. I talked to my. sister-in-law Christine about it. I now. have my entire feed on social media of. those plans, dermal, whatever the heck. it is, facelift things, plus all these. women trying to teach you how to massage. with your knuckles straight up. I try I. even tried the face massage. I'm like, I. am so not disciplined. I don't think I. could do this for 2 years straight. >> Uh-huh. >> Does this stuff work? Like what what do. I What are we doing?
>> Okay, I know. You're You're probably. stressing yourself You're stressing. yourself. Okay, okay, okay. So, first. thing is at least you know that it's. bothering you. >> A lot. >> of people don't realize that. >> Okay. >> don't know what it is, but they're just. getting angrier or more upset. So, at. least you know it's bothering you. >> Yes. >> When you know it's bothering you, you. know, okay, what are my options? Extremist surgery, but there's a whole. slew of things you could try to do for. yourself if you do not want surgery or. if it's not for you. >> Let's try Let's talk about the things. that are not surgery. >> I can absolutely talk about those. things. >> So, what are the options? What am I. doing? >> Okay. Starting with what you've already.
done. >> Yes. >> Your facial massaging. What you're doing. when you're massaging your face is. moving lymphatic fluid around. So, on. the margin, it's going to minimize that. puff that's accumulating in. gravity-dependent areas. >> Okay. >> Is it going to make you look like a. fetus? Probably not. So, again, understand what you're doing and why, so. you you know how to continue. >> So, it's not changing when I take my. knuckles and I or that L-shape thing and. I do one of these things and I do this. and then people are like this and do all. this and they're like, "And then you.
look like this.". >> It's a It's a temporary improvement, but. it might not be. >> emptying the bags of some of the things. in there, but they're not The extra skin. isn't going anywhere cuz it's a. structural issue. >> It's a structural issue. Exactly. So, this is not me saying that it's useless. If you look better before a red carpet. event, of course do it. But if you're. doing it thinking you're getting your. skin to get tighter, no. >> I am. >> You're not. You're not. You're not. You're [laughter] not. You're just not. So, that's not going to help. >> Oh my god. >> Um so, that's that. So, beyond skin care.
and into the office, right? There's a whole slew of things and. before we get into the details of every. single treatment, what I tell my. patients is when you think of aging, there's like five or six categories that. you can think of that you can actually. help with. One is the lines that are built in on. your face that are due to repetitive. movement. That's Botox. But Botox can also change. how you speak with your expression. So. like I say you pull down, it can help to. minimize that pull to minimize the look. of the jowls. >> Mhm, okay. >> Two is where are we from a volume.
standpoint? Do we have a lot of volume but we're. sagging? And again, I'm generalizing, right? There's always shades of gray. Or do we have volume but we're sinking. now because it's kind of like going in. and we're caving in. And this is where fillers come into. play. Not to fill. Not to create new proportion and that's. where people get into trouble. But when. you use fillers very, very. conservatively to keep the proportion of. your face intact overall. And it's not.
symmetry cuz symmetry doesn't exist. You can look more cohesive from a volume. perspective. But that alone, volume. fillers, right? Or stimulants are not. going to necessarily get rid of the fine. lines that are etched on your face. Different problem, different solution. I. don't treat my depression with an. antibiotics. Same thing, okay? Then you have your skin tone. Do we have. brown spots? Do we have redness? And. this for me I'm very passionate about. because it's the one place where people. can take control and ownership over.
their skin tone by using the right. products at home first. >> Mhm. >> And [snorts] if someone comes in and. tells me I want a laser treatment, but. they're not doing anything for their. skin. I look at them and I say, do you. go to the dentist for a dental cleaning. but you don't brush your teeth every. day? Right? No, no one does that. If you're. not brushing your teeth, you're not. really going for the you're not getting. a dental cleaning once a year. So a. laser's your dental cleaning and. everyday maintenance is your most. important part. >> Got it. >> Okay? Number four is your overall elasticity. and texture. Do we have acne scars or we.
losing that? There are treatments in. office that can be done to try to. strengthen the foundation of your skin. >> Really? Like we get rid of that creepy. old couch saggy ass thing? >> A little bit. It's not going to get rid. of it. Again, realistic expectations. But do we have radio frequency energies? We have ultrasound energy, heat devices, but it's a tipping point. You don't want. to overdo it and get rid of fat. So, you. have to find the right provider who. understands your structure, where you're. at, and what your wants are for down the. road. So, you're you're mapping the arc. of your life. How do you want to age?
And then we're plugging and playing. And then you have, like I said, your. bone structure. And then there is this. whole world of bio-regenerative. What can we use from our own body to. stimulate our own skin to the best of. its ability? >> I don't know what. >> and PRF from our blood, and these has. growth factors. But growth factors. >> facial thing? >> Yes. But growth factors. >> It's interesting. Growth factors are. like fertilizer. It's going to stimulate. as good as the environment that you put. it in. It's not always a home run.
And I tell patients very honestly, the. biggest thing you risk losing is money. But you're never going to know until you. try. Then you have your fat. Where through. fat you can re-volumize, but the more. interesting part about fat is that you. can get fat stem cells. And that's like. a seed for plants. When you plant the. seed, something is going to grow. And. with fat stem cells, you can really. regenerate tissue. >> In your face. >> In your face, in your underarms, on your. neck, your chest, your hands, your. knees. Like I've done it all over.
But it's something that you can help. yourself with. It's not something you do. all the time, maybe two, three times a. decade. But it's something that, let's. say, you're in your early 40s, you're. hitting this perimenopause, you start to. help your body regenerate as everything. else is declining. Over time, will you. look more cohesive, where maybe you can. push back surgery if your structure. allows, right? And let's say you do want. surgery, does it give you better results. cuz your whole ecosystem looks better. for you?
>> Got it. >> So, there are many layers to this onion, and it's not I'm going to get a laser. treatment for my volume. Lasers are not going to give you the. volume cuz it's not the problem that. it's addressing. And that's something. that's often missed in cosmetics where. people think, "Oh, it's a magical laser. or a magical device or a magical. injectable." But the reality is, you. have to understand, again, expectations. meeting reality. >> Wow. That was so helpful. So, where does. collagen fit into all of this? And.
can you boost it? And what are the two. best ways if you can? >> So, people think fine lines wrinkles, they think collagen. >> Yes. >> And collagen is the main structural. protein in your skin. But we know starting in our late 20s, it. starts to decline at a rate of around 1%. a year, right? And this is due to. internal changes, sun, hormones, maybe. even inflammation. But I think when. you're trying to simplify it, three ways. that you can think of boosting your. collagen starting with number one and. the most trend-worthy, collagen.
supplements and diet. There's confusion in marketing. Diet is. very important, like I said, it's going. to support your collagen production. It. is going to help your collagen. production. And if you have a very. well-balanced diet, you do not need the. supplement, okay? But just taking a. collagen supplement and expecting it to. go straight to your skin for good skin, you're misleading yourself. And it's not. a necessity. >> Okay. >> It's very expensive. It can be a whole. budget on its own. So, really I would. focus on the well-balanced diet where.
you're getting that protein intake, you're getting all of that to create. that foundation for your skin. And if. you want to add the collagen. supplements, great. They're not going to. hurt you, but they're not going to be. the only answer to help yourself. >> Got it. Okay. >> Number two, topical skin care. This works with consistency. and maintenance. It does not work as a. one-off. So, being consistent with a. retinol can stimulate collagen. production over time. >> Got it. >> Um protecting your skin with sunscreen. is not going to make collagen today, but. over time when you look back, you will.
look better. And so, having those. maintenance points in your skin care can. help. Um and number three, in-office. procedures. If skin care is maintenance, in-office procedures are like little. accelerators, right? Microneedling can. boost a little bit your collagen. production and your cell turnover. Certain laser treatments can help you. help yourself. Um, so there are little. ways that you can help yourself through. outside interventions to keep that. collagen boosted over time. >> Let's talk about injectables. Who are. they for?
>> That's a very good question. I think it. depends on the problem that we. described. Do we have lines that are. built in? Do we have volume issues? What. are we trying to achieve through them? I. think the reason why they've all gotten. a bad rap and injectables being Botox. and fillers all together is not one. single reason. I think it's. multifactorial. I'm a provider myself, and I think as someone in this field, providers do play a role. I think. patients also come in expecting this. instant gratification culture where more. is more, and they want to see the. results right away.
Botox is going to help you. by minimizing how much you're moving. your muscles. The goal of Botox is not to freeze you. in perpetuity. I'm not trying to embalm. you in Botox, right? And so when you. understand that, you start to see Botox. through the lens of, "Oh, it's giving my. face moments of pause throughout the. year." So again, instead of aging more. like this, I'm aging more like that. >> Yeah. >> Okay? Where instead of pulling down.
constantly, maybe it will help me change. how I just move so I don't keep pulling. cuz I know my jowls bother me. So that's. where Botox comes in. And side note, that's why I think I personally have an. issue with like the preventative Botox. aspects of life because what are we. preventing? What are you preventing? The lines are. going to form. And so when people have. no lines on their face and they want to. start Botox, they're coming to me from a. fear-based, you know, motivation. And that for me is a sign and they.
shouldn't be doing it. Because when you. do anything out of fear, you're not. doing it for the right reasons. And. starting too young is going to push you. into this world where you think you need. to be frozen. So, I don't believe in it. and I usually tell younger. >> young you think? Cuz I I I see this, too, with the 20-somethings that I know, you know, wrenching up their forehead. I think I. need to I'm like, "What?". >> I mean, I think it's a great question. that comes up and it's rightfully asked. >> Yeah. >> But it's hard to pinpoint a number. I've. seen 20-year-olds who look really old.
And I've seen 60-year-olds who look. really young. So, I'm a little skewed. I. think when the lines are there and. >> Well, you see 100 patients a week and. you've been doing this for over a. decade, so. >> and they're really bugging you, that's. when you can start. >> Got you. >> Fillers, like I said, it's a different. category. The goal is to keep the. proportion of your face intact. And when. it's done very, very subtly, you. shouldn't be able to notice it. And it's not like you all And how often. are you doing it? How much are you. injecting? Where are you injecting? Are. you injecting to try to catch up with. time or are you injecting to play with.
where you're at right now? >> Mhm. >> And so, I think having that. understanding is finding that provider. that you fully trust. >> I love that. Um. if a person listening. is in a moment in their life where their. confidence is in the gutter. because of the state of their skin. or one of their kids. is in the gutter confidence-wise because. of the state of their skin. I would love to have you speak to them. and tell them what a few simple things. are that they can do this week.
to just feel better. even if their skin. >> is not there yet. >> is not going to change overnight. It's. going to change over time. >> Okay. So, if you're listening and you're. feeling out of sorts because of how your. skin looks, your confidence is not going. to come from changing your skin first. It's going to come by changing your. relationship to your skin first. So, do not start by trying to fix. everything all at once because you're. going to open the floodgates and it's. never going to amount to anything.
So, three simple things that you can do. today is one, simplify your skincare. routine. Simplify, simplify so you can. be consistent and even if that's just. I'm going to wash my face, start with. that. Small changes give you a sense of. control and you start to feel better. Two, throw your magnifying mirror out. I cannot say this enough. Nobody is. looking at you under a 10x zoom. Throw it out. It is causing more harm. than good and just start looking at.
yourself at a distance where people look. at you and how you are seen and how you. see yourself under the light that you. normally see yourself, but a magnifying. mirror is probably your biggest enemy. And number three, do something for. yourself even if it's not skincare. related. Maybe it's wear mascara. Put on. a red lip. Wear the sexy jeans that make. you feel good. Do something for yourself. that helps you feel put together, like. you're wearing an iron shirt. I think. those three little things can cause.
automatic boosts of confidence and. really allow you to start feeling like. you're in control so you can make a. change and a shift for yourself. >> I love that. Thank you. If you had to. distill everything that you have taught. us today. into a very simple takeaway, what's the. number one thing, Dr. Idriss, that the. person listening or watching on YouTube. should remember and do after listening. to this? >> I think if you're going to take away one. thing from listening to this today, it's.
that your skin is not a problem to. solve. It is a relationship to build and. you have to get to know your skin, understand the feedback, understand the. signals and hopefully gain a better. understanding of what's at your disposal. so that when you're treating yourself, your expectations are met and you're not. feeling like you're in a never-ending. cycle of nothingness. Um because ultimately it's consistency. that matters most.
You want to show up without shame. And I. think telling people that you care about. how your skin looks can sometimes be. shameful. Um and you want to care for yourself. without that shame. And I think. understanding. the basics will always serve you better. than the trends. >> I am so thrilled that you came. I learned so much. Dr. Idriss, what are. your parting words? >> Be kind to yourself in the process. I. think life is going to happen. Don't. beat yourself up. But also be willing to change your own.
perspectives. And have an open mind when it comes to. yourself and the aging process because. what I've seen in my life and in my. practice and also in my own personal. experience is more often than not we are. the ones who stand in our own way. So I think this is something that may. sound superficial and vain, but really. just be really kind to yourself from the. inside out and the outside in. >> Your skin is not a problem to solve. It's a relationship to build. And I am grateful. that you have taught us.
using the research and the facts about. the simple things that we can do, whether it's sleep or the taking a step. back, or really looking holistically, or. just the three simple things that you. need, identifying the issue or the thing. you want to improve as you build a. better relationship with yourself and. your skin. I feel more comfortable in my own skin. I feel empowered. I'm so excited by what. you have taught us today. So from the. bottom of my heart, thank you, thank.
you, thank you on behalf of myself and. every single person around the world. who's going to listen to this and share. this as a free resource with the people. that they love. >> Well, I'm very grateful and thank you. for allowing me the time and the space. to. dive in. >> Well, you destroyed it, woman. And I. also want to tell you before you leave, as your friend, I'm so excited that you. took the time to listen to something and. to educate yourself. I learned so much. I know you did, too. I have so many. friends I am sending this to. I feel.
like we got a consultation with a. world-renowned. dermatologist who has helped both you. and me understand what we need to do to. take care of the largest organ in our. body and be comfortable in our skin. And. how cool is that? And as your friend, I want to be sure to. tell you in case nobody else does that I. love you and I believe in you and I. believe in your ability to create a. better life and what you learn today and. the relationship that you can build with. yourself will absolutely make your life.
better. So, I hope you take the words to. heart and you do it. All righty. I will. be waiting for you in the very next. episode. I'm going to welcome you in the. moment you hit play. I'll see you there. And thank you for watching all the way. to the end. I learned so much. I feel so. empowered and more importantly, it feels like a gift to share with other. people. So, thank you, thank you, thank. you for being here all the way to the. end on YouTube. Thank you for hitting. subscribe. If this is lit up, please. [music] do your friend Mel Robbins a. favor. Support us. Hit subscribe. It's.
free. It's the best way for you to say, "I really appreciate all of this free. resources and expert [music] advice, Mel. and team." Thank you, thank you, thank. you for showing up for me. Thank you for. hitting subscribe. All right, I know. you're interested in the next video. Here's the one you want to watch and. I'll be there to welcome you in the. moment you hit play.
