Inside South Korea's K-beauty obsession - Asia Specific podcast, BBC World Service

Even high school students, after their big college entrance exam, they would get their graduation gift. from their parents, which is double eyelid surgery. Walking around Seoul, it's impossible to escape this culture of beauty. You can tell that beauty really matters. We told you recently how South Korea is winning the battle of Asian soft power. Well, businesses are benefiting from this, specifically Korean cosmetic brands. They're known as K-beauty, and they became popular outside.

of their home market in the 2010s. Now it's a multi-billion dollar industry. that's increasingly mainstream in the US and UK. But South Korea is also known for its obsession with perfect beauty. So much so that people go there to get cosmetic surgery done. Is there a dark side to K-beauty success? I'm Mariko in Singapore and this is Asia Specific. from the BBC World Service. Twice a week,

we bring you Asia Pacific stories unpacked by those who know them best. Well, today I have Rachel Lee from the Asia Specific podcast team and. the BBC's Asia Business correspondent Suranjana Tewari. Also, I have Mia Chen, who is a beauty influencer on the line. from Melbourne in Australia. Thank you all for joining me on Asia Specific. Mia, you are a beauty influencer. You review all sorts of cosmetic products. Tell me what's your favourite and why?

I'm definitely a fan of Asian skincare, because I believe in Asian culture, we heavily rely on. using our skin as a representation of our social status or but also, lately of late, especially, Korean skincare has taken off, with the craze of K-pop. But also, as early as I started YouTube, Korean skincare was actually pretty readily available on the market. It just wasn't, I guess, crazy until it was in the late 2020s.

obviously with, you know, the K-dramas like Squid Games and everything. I'm wondering why K-beauty products have taken off so quickly. and have become almost mainstream in the West. Why do you think that is? I think it comes down to three key factors. One thing is, I think everyone has a lot of this economic, I guess, factor in there because we're shopping wisely. and there's so much information on the Internet.

that we're actually doing more research before we're purchasing. So we're not just buying from the big brands. Now we're actually talking about ingredients, talking about where it's sourced, what it does. And I think a lot of Korean skincare derives. from a lot of natural ingredients. So that comes to mind, second as well, like I mentioned, is a lot. of the culture and history behind. how Korean products are made because they kind of focus on key ingredients. and making sure that these are the ingredients that's only in the product.

And then last but not least is obviously with K-pop. Thank you so much, Mia. That's really interesting. Thanks for joining me on Asia Specific. Thank you for having me. So, Su, I remember in Japan, Korean products becoming popular, I think, in the early 2000s, but they've become almost mainstream even in the West, haven't they? So can you tell me why you decided to look. into this kind of power of K-beauty? Yeah, Mariko. I mean, over the years, I've really been seeing.

that there's been a lot more talk around K-beauty brands, everyday skincare. Now, I grew up in the West, I grew up in the in the UK, but we didn't really hear about Asian brands. We knew that in Asia, skin whitening products, for example, were very big in the beauty world. But over the years I've realised that, you know, I started seeing. that Korean brands were being talked about for everyday skincare. So I started looking into it. And, you know, you go onto any social media platform.

and if you type South Korean skincare. You will find videos with 10s and 20s and 30 million views, you know, on people talking about how great this skincare as well. And that's why I decided to look into it. And I traveled to South Korea, I talked to one of the biggest companies there, and I found out some really interesting things. about the business model there, which is one of the main reasons.

why South Korean beauty, K-beauty has become so popular around the world. So just to pick up on growing up in the UK, so you would have used which country's brand, would that be. what? French? Yeah, I mean, French is one of the biggest beauty producers in the world. So yes, French brands and L'Oreal, of course, has a number of brands. under its umbrella now. And then there's Estee Lauder. But one thing about all of those brands is.

the price point is much, much higher than Korean beauty brands. And that's something that's been really interesting. We heard earlier about the affordability of K-beauty brands, and that's partly because there are around 30,000. K-beauty brands in South Korea right now. They're all competing very fiercely in a crowded market, and one of the areas they can really pick up market share. is by keeping those costs down and. therefore selling their products at a much lower prices as well.

It's incredible, because I looked up how many cosmetic brands Japan has, and obviously South Korea's population is about half of Japan's. And yet, I think there are about 3,000 brands in Japan. And there are 30,000 in South Korea. Rachel, you grew up with this. Were you surprised, though, that, you know, because you would have used Korean products. since you were probably a teenager. And then suddenly now everyone is. kind of, everyone from overseas are actually getting them as well.

Yeah, I mean, it's quite surprising. And because I'm in Singapore now, whenever I bring these cosmetic products from Korea, people around me, even if they are not Korean, they would always recognise this brands or like sunscreen products. and they would, I mean, they are more obsessed. with K-beauty products than I am. So it was, yeah, it's very fascinating to see all these, you know, like K-beauty trends on fire.

The numbers are quite incredible, isn't it? In terms of the rise. in sales of Korean beauty products that we saw in the US. I was reading like it's expected to top, what, $2 billion in 2025, up 40% from last year. Now, replacing France as the leading cosmetic exporter in the US. South Korea has overtaken France in terms of exports to the US, and that's not even including South East Asia, which is obviously a huge market. China is also a very big market for these firms.

The UK is becoming bigger and bigger. Boots now stocks 25 South Korean skincare brands. I spoke to the head of AmorePacific, which is. a really big South Korean brand, and I did ask him what the difference is. between the South Korean customer and the global customer. Because of cultural and historic traditions, we have found that in countries like Japan, Korea and China, there is more interest in things like flawless skin.

In Europe, fragrance is the main category, and in the US we found that makeup is more popular. Things are changing though. US and European customers are becoming more interested. in having very young looking skin. And with the effects of climate change, there is a lot more interest. in protecting yourself from UV rays. So sunscreen is seeing a lot of growth. Well, there you have it, the head of Amorepacific. And I don't know if you noticed, but he has excellent skin. We did ask him about his skincare routine,

and he did say he uses his own products, but it was quite an elaborate routine as well. And you can see the effect. AmorePacific is actually quite a large company in South Korea, isn't it? But it has a lot of independent brands underneath it. It's bought a lot of these independent brands that are doing quite well, as well. And I asked him if, you know, they've taken control. over these independent brands and he said, no, they're able to operate.

as they used to with creative control and all that kind of thing. And that's really the essence of the South Korean skincare industry. It's about people coming up with ideas by themselves, whether they're big businesses or small businesses. And one of the reasons they're able to do that is. because actually there's an entire ecosystem. So these big companies don't actually have to invest in the research. and innovation that goes into these skincare products. Those are, that's outsourced to third parties. And then these big companies go and say,

"Hey, I would like a product with salmon sperm, or I would like a product with snail mucin in it.". And these third parties do the research and innovation. They create the product. And then these big companies are able to market those products. with their infrastructure that's already there. So, you said snail, what did you say? Snail mucin. It's the stuff that real snails secrete. And that is not vegan, I believe. But apparently it helps.

with hydration and elasticity for, you know, people seeking the Korean look. It's all about young skin. It's all about the dewy complexion. And these are the types of products that really help with it. Thing about Korean cosmetic products is it's always experimental. It's always new. You can always try these, not only new ingredients, but also like these new methods. Like something that you put on. while you're asleep, something you put on while you're resting,

like they're always trying to listen to consumers, what they need and what they want. Because this has been always this way. It's more like consumer-led industry. I was reading that when a TikToker criticised a Korean brand. for having only like two or three different shades, then they just responded quickly to increase the number of shades, didn't they? But in terms of the affordability, I guess, this is an issue not just in South Korea or Asia,

but, you know, I think there was a hashtag Sephora kids. where tweens would be shopping all these beauty products. It's almost kind of getting too young of an age where, I was reading. about a face mask for like three, four year old kids and stuff. I mean, is that an issue in South Korea where there's almost too much pressure. on even those young children who shouldn't need any of those products. I think it all comes down to social media, to be honest. People, like young kids have access to these social media,

and these social media videos always show this makeup tutorials, all these new products that are launched by cosmetic companies. So, they want to try it out themselves. And they can try it out because, as you said, it's affordable. What's affordable is I think it's a double-edged sword. because affordable means that you can get it anytime you want. But the thing is anyone can get it, like even kids, right? The fact that they are exposed to that from young, young age, I think there is a risk.

So, Su, in terms of affordability, I mean, you told us. about so much competition, but even then, how do they keep it so affordable. when obviously it costs quite a bit of money to produce these products as well? Yeah. I think, survival, if you want to survive. in the industry, you have to find a way to cut costs. I mean, the factory that we visited, which was part of AmorePacifc, it was fully automated, for example. So, they must keep costs down on,

on labor because most of their production seems to be automated. That's not to say that there are not failures in the business. Actually, I think about 8,000 brands, failed last year. So, that's how competitive it is. I don't think it's easy to keep those costs down, but there's a few other things that these Korean brands do as well. Which is to have very simple packaging. I think that's one thing that keeps costs low as well. I think they're very careful about the amount that they make.

They only make enough for what their demand might be. So, I think there are various areas. where they're managing to keep costs down. I do think it also tells a really important story about Western brands that we're used to, and the kinds of margins that they must be operating in. I mean, there are creams out there, Creme de la Mer comes to mind, which is like 200, 300 USD for each pot. And you just wonder how these big brands are, you know,

it's impossible that the product costs that much. They've also got far bigger marketing campaigns, for example, they're hiring Hollywood stars like Johnny Depp and Julia Roberts, whereas Korean brands, they either keep it local with. Korean ambassadors, K-pop idols, which I imagine is slightly cheaper than a Hollywood star. I mean, clearly South Korean brands are doing really, really well. But I want to talk about, I guess, kind of the dark side of this obsession.

with perfect beauty, because I think that was kind of the start, wasn't it? Tell me your experience, Rachel, in terms of this kind of obsession. with perfect beauty growing up in South Korea, because it's also known for, you know, I guess, almost capital of cosmetic surgeries and treatment as well, isn't it? Um, honestly, I can't really think of anyone around my age or slightly older. than me who haven't gotten any plastic surgery or cosmetic treatments.

And this includes not only surgery, but also like simple skin care as well. Even high school students, after their big college entrance exam, so right before their graduation, they would get their graduation gift. from their parents, which is, double eyelid surgery. So, wait, so this is for 18 year olds? For 18, 19 year olds who just, you know, finished their big exam. So, and then. And double eyelid surgery is.

Eyelid surgery. creating a crease on your eyelids? Yeah, on your eyelid to make your eyes bigger. Because big eyes are always considered as, you know, the beauty standard in Korea. And clinics also know about this too. Which is why during this post exam season, which is around December. to February, they would go on this big discount. And if you show them that you were a test taker this year,

then they would offer you a big discount of all these treatments, all these surgeries. So, this is quite a norm in Korea. I looked up when and how this double eyelid surgery was invented, and it was by a Japanese doctor like in the 19th century. And double eyelids thing is a big thing in Japan as well. Was there a moment though, because, you know, was there a moment. where plastic surgery went so common? Like, how did it happen? Well, I don't know the exact start of plastic surgery,

but as far as I can think of is during 1980s to 1990s, beauty pageants were huge in Korea. So it's not as huge as what it was today. But back in 1980s and 1990s, and this was the time when Korea was starting to develop. So we weren't like economically developed country back then. And then people saw these beauty pageants, winner and runner ups.

becoming a huge TV star or marrying to these wealthy families. So they kind of noticed, they kind of realised that, "Okay, beauty can bring all these money, all these success. So this can actually change your life.". And of course, foreigners also go to South Korea. to have these treatments and surgeries. And you visited some of the clinics, haven't you? That's right. I mean, walking around Seoul, it's impossible to escape this culture of beauty. You can tell that beauty really matters and businesses and people.

are really jumping on that bandwagon. And yeah, we visited one clinic that offers, not, it does offer some plastic surgery, but it says mostly skin treatment. The head of that company said that they have a lot of responsibility, that sometimes people walk in with photos of celebrities and. say, "I want to look like this person.". And they say, you know, we need to discuss with them how much,

how invasive we get and what level of treatment is actually needed. You know, in all my stories, I try to find out all sides of it. I do try and be a bit skeptical and find out the other side of it. And I do think there is a big push, quite a concerning push to especially try and get young people hooked. on skincare when it might not be necessary. It's making me wonder. Say, if you are a rare person in South Korea. who chooses not to have any of these surgeries, any of the treatments,

I mean, critics could argue that this is almost, you know, lookism enforced by, you know, possible discrimination on those who choose not to go through these things. I think this also comes down to fear of missing out, FOMO. Because you feel like. even though you don't have like, specific dissatisfaction on your face, you just feel like you need to do something on your face.

at a certain age because a lot of people around you are doing it. I think this is why it's really hard to get rid. of these Asia's beauty obsession, but I think things are a bit changing. I think it all started from Covid because. during Covid we had to wear this face mask. And if you wear a face mask, you can't, it doesn't really have a point of wearing a makeup, right? So, people started to wear less makeup or no makeup at all,

when they're going to work or when they're going to school. So, starting from that, people started to, it became like a choice. Before then, it was like, if you're not wearing any makeup to work, they would be like, "Oh, why are you not wearing a makeup today? Is something going on?". But then, after Covid, people started to choose, if they don't want to wear makeup, they wouldn't wear it at all. And then people started to realise and people started to be aware that, okay, if you mention about people's makeup and if you mention.

about people's looks, it could be quite, you know, rude. And they would be offended by that. So the fact that people are more aware of this, I think it shows that this is a small step to dismantle this whole thing. Do you think it's going to get dismantled, though? Because I think, you were talking about like double eyelids. and big eyes being kind of the standard of beauty in East Asia. Also, in Japan, at least, you know, you, you open a magazine and it actually tells you.

what face shape your face should be, you know, all that kind of stuff. And like long eyelashes, it's kind of like trying to look a Barbie doll idea. Yeah, I can relate to that. I mean, it's going to be really, really hard and it's going to take a long time. And I think this also has to do with affordability, again, you know, like skin treatments. and all these cosmetic treatments are quite cheap in Korea. And I'm talking about these Botox or like lip fillers.

It's not it's just a few jabs. Right? So it doesn't take long. And sometimes if you get a discount, it's going to cost you. less than 50 USD. So it's very, very cheap. Even college students can save up their money. by doing part time job or like getting allowance. And then they would just go to one of these clinics in Seoul, which is really easy to see on the streets. And then they would pay for it, and then it's going to take like. five to ten minutes to get all these injections and then boom, you're out.

Actually, a while ago, there was an American girl who had gone to Korea. for some sort of eye surgery, and she ended up going blind. And she posted about it and. she said, you know, the clinics just said, put their hands up. And said, you know, we've got nothing to do with it. You signed a disclaimer type thing. I also asked the clinic that I visited about these types of things, and they said that the regulation is actually really strict in Korea.

So it's very unusual for these types of things. But there are bad actors everywhere. And maybe that clinic was fake or it didn't fill the rules. But again, they seem to say. that the industry feels it has a responsibility. I've learned so much today, and I'm going to come to you for beauty advice. We'll leave it there. Suranjana and Rachel, thank you so much. You've been watching Asia Specific from the BBC World Service. with me, Mariko Oi in Singapore.

If you have any questions or thoughts on what we've covered in this episode. or any other stories from the region, do leave us a comment below. and click like and subscribe so you never miss an episode. But for now, thank you for watching and see you next time.